Through Peaks and Passes: A Journey Across Gurez Valley and Kargil

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As I reflect on our recent journey through Gurez Valley and Kargil, I am reminded of the breathtaking beauty that defines Gurez and the rugged resilience that characterizes the Ladakh region.

Our original plan was to visit Gurez Valley followed by Sonamarg. However, the itinerary changed, and we ended up covering approximately 900 kilometers—reaching Gurez first and then Kargil before returning. Traveling in a group can be logistically challenging, but once everyone comes together, planning and execution become easier. I am grateful to my colleagues, whose company turned this trip into a truly memorable experience.

Gurez Valley bears similarities to other remote valleys in the region, such as Tangdar, Keran, Jumgand, and Machil. To access it, one must ascend to an altitude of over 11,000 feet, followed by a descent into the valley. The metallic roads, while sturdy, pose challenges with their sharp curves, steep inclines, and narrow stretches. Surrounded by majestic mountains, Gurez is stunningly beautiful. Streams cascade from snow-clad peaks, feeding the Kishanganga River and supporting the hydroelectric project located there.

The local population shares cultural and ethnic similarities with Kashmiris, especially in hospitality. With the growing influx of tourists, many locals have transformed their homes into guesthouses, offering warm and welcoming accommodations. Though the markets are modest and not overly busy, food and lodging are quite satisfactory. The region appears to have a low population density, and many residents may prefer living in mainland Kashmir.

One of the valley’s highlights is the triangular-shaped mountain known as Habba Khatoon Mountain, named after the famed Kashmiri poetess. A spring flows mysteriously beneath it, without a visible source—locals consider it a miracle. According to folklore, Habba Khatoon would descend from the mountain to collect water from a pond, giving the mountain its name. It is also said that Yousuf Shah Chak, the 17th-century Sultan of Kashmir, once visited this mountain. Although we didn’t visit it, Tulail Valley is also said to be worth exploring.

Gurez is highly recommended for nature lovers and adventure seekers, especially those who enjoy scenic drives or bike rides. With its lush greenery, towering mountains, dense forests, gushing streams, and refreshing climate, it offers an unforgettable experience. Infrastructure development here must be carried out with transparency and integrity.

Although we only ventured as far as Kargil in Ladakh, the journey itself was noteworthy. We crossed the formidable Zojila Pass, situated at about 12,000 feet above sea level. The road, carved into the mountainside, is both thrilling and treacherous, requiring strong nerves. Contractors have a duty to maintain quality in road construction, and the public must also act as stewards of these vital resources.

Driving on Zojila, with its fragile cliffs and deep gorges, can be daunting. Landslides and falling rocks are constant threats. Due to extremely low temperatures, conventional metal roads are inadequate, so concrete tiles are used for traction and safety. A state-of-the-art tunnel—the Zojila Tunnel, a major project for India—is under construction and will soon provide year-round connectivity between Kashmir and Ladakh.

Beyond the pass, the landscape turns stark and barren. The first town one encounters is Drass, often dubbed the second coldest inhabited place on Earth. Despite its austere climate and subdued atmosphere, life in Drass carries on normally. The town is also home to the Kargil War Memorial, honoring those who fought in the 1999 war.

Continuing the journey, one again drives through dramatic mountain scenery before reaching Kargil, a town that serves as a district headquarters. Though the market here is not very vibrant and the town seems somewhat detached from the rest of the world, the residents live decent, culturally rich lives. A bypass has been built just before entering the main town to ease traffic for those traveling toward Leh, as Kargil’s internal roads are quite narrow.

Despite its dry terrain and sparse vegetation, the Kargil region offers immense appeal for adventure enthusiasts. The roads are relatively empty, and the surrounding mountains inspire awe. These mountains, serving as ancient guardians, evoke thoughts on balance, resilience, and the vastness of the world. They offer not just visual splendor, but also a space for reflection and renewal of the spirit.

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